Karnataka – Kumta, Gokarn, Bhadra Wild Life Sanctuary

May 29, 2014June 1, 2014 by Kaushik

Fishermen’s village at Kumta:

Kumta Beach – isolated and serene:

Sunset at Gokarna:

India really eats cricket and sleeps cricket: a nice cricketing shot in the backdrop of setting sun:

Day11

Gokarna, a place that is so full of old world charm, mythology and temples that is it difficult to fathom its unsavoury reputation as a haven for unruly people, junkies and drugs. Legend has it that Shiva emerged from a cow’s ear to save his devotees. Whatever the myth may be, Gokarna does have an appeal that is all its own, which comes from the ancient temple, the busy market streets selling brass lamps, bells, ornaments and little statues, and the beach, where sea-gazing in the changing light is considered to be the best pastime. The rocky terrain and turtle shaped rocks in the sea enhance the setting.

There are five beaches altogether, Gokarna beach is the longest on the northern side with lots of crowds and always buzzing with activities, Kudle, OM, Half Moon Bay and Paradise are 4 other more pristine beaches from North to South. You have to walk a little but mostly car can take you to Kudle and more famous OM beach but for Paradise and Half Moon Bay, you have no option than to do an adventurous trek or may take boats to visit them depending on ocean tides. We ventured in all 4, took boats for some part of it and after much bargain got it for Rs.600 for 4 of us for a round trip from OM to Half Moon and Paradise. These beaches are awesome and you would be completely isolated from outside world.

The temperature was scorching, when people were dying in cold waves in North, we were fried in temperature of 36 degrees at the end of December which was incidentally the highest temperature recorded in the country for that day. Not sure if this region is that hot in December or this year was an exception. Namaste Cafe was brilliant, especially its restaurant, I would surely stay here if ever I revisit Gokarna. Only issue, they usually don’t take advance booking especially in the seasons of December and January, you have to go and try your luck. But it’s a must stay for anyone, sipping beers sitting at their beach restaurant soothing your ears with light music and watching the ocean relentlessly breaking its waves below you is something to experience.

This ends our coastal circuit, from one end to the other, Karnataka’s coastline is an undulating continuation, hiding remarkably azure waters fringed by golden sands, overlooked by thick groves of coconut and trees or better still, the giant, towering range of the Western Ghats. There’s breathtaking scenery, there are places to see, Sea waves playing orchestra for you, food for thought and for the stomach, adventure and water sports, a million things to do, see, feel – a perfect getaway to relax, rejuvenate and recharge.

Car Odo Reading:

Gokarna – 45772
OM Beach – 45782
Gokarna – 45791

Kudle Beach:

Half Moon Beach:

Paradise Beach:

Beach shacks at OM Beach:

Famous OM Beach:

Gokarna Beach always busy with activities:

Awesome sunset at Gokarna in the backdrop of Western Ghats:

Day12

We headed back to Malnad region by retracing back till Kumta and then taking lesser known SH48 towards Siddapur and the Ghat section in this road was under dense rain forest and amazingly beautiful to express in words. At Ondane, the forest region ends and we took a right turn towards Mensa and there by bypassing Siddapur, we reached Jog Falls by 2 hours 30 mins after starting from Gokarna. The route was nice and had almost no traffic.

Jog was a big upset, the four parts of the falls, Raja/Rani/Roarer/Rocket all were in extremely poor shape and probably that’s what it should be in December, we were warned by many but then again the more disappointing than the falls were the huge crowds that were present even as early as 9.00am on a weekday.

We moved out quickly, continue via NH206 to cross Sagar and Shimoga and finally took a right towards Lakkavalli. JLR River Tern was our destination and like most JLRs they are professional and after a quick check-in and lunch, we proceeded for a forest safari, which was a mistake we made, you should take boats in evening and take jeep safari on the following morning. Reason is in evening you can witness a memorable sunset on Bhadra lake where as in morning there is more chance to spot an animal which anyway now is a little difficult there as a lot of road work and forest restoration work is in progress and the disturbances by big earth movers have driven the animals away into the other side of the forest. But River Tern is a nice place to unwind, an excellent place to spend a lazy day.

Car Odo Reading:

Gokarna – 45791
Cut for SH48 for Siddapur from Kumta – 45823
Turn right at Ondane – 45877
Mensa (meets Siddapur-Jog Road) – 45898
Jog Falls – 45907
Shimoga – 46020
Lakkavalli (River Tern) – 46049

Bhadra Reservoir from Cottage:

Sunset at Bhadra:

Morning at Bhadra Reservoir:

River Tern cottages from Bhadra Reservoir:

Previous: Karnataka – Pristine Beaches Kaup, St. Mary Island, Maravanthe, Baindoor, Murudheshwar

Next: Karnataka – Kemmanagundi, Mulayanagiri, Belur

Karnataka – Pristine Beaches Kaup, St. Mary Island, Maravanthe, Baindoor, Murudheshwar

May 29, 2014June 1, 2014 by Kaushik

Day9

The 300 odd km of coastline from Mangalore to Karwar has plenty of scenic and breathtaking beaches, along with equally famous towns in between. In fact, Karnataka’s coastline is probably India’s best shoreline. Untouched beaches, uncluttered, crisp golden sands sandwiched between lush green coconut trees and undulated rocks and blue water that lovingly meets the land – a true delight for every traveller yet probably the best kept tourist secret in the state. If you are a beach lover, beach hopping across Karnataka is a must for you.

We started early and it was a Sunday, so roads were relatively less crowded compared to regular traffic around Mangalore. Just before Suratkal, we stopped for breakfast. Drove past the REC Suratkal (Now NIT) and our target was Kaup. I have shortlisted a few places as exploring all the beaches of Karnataka might be a one full week’s itinerary and unfortunately we didn’t have that much time. Kaup is infamous for its strong waves and rough seas and swimming or any kind of water activity in this beach was not recommended, but it will touch you with it’s rocky terrain and lovely golden sands. The lighthouse is a place to visit but unfortunately it only opens between 4 to 6 pm, so if you have time, plan for watching a memorable sunset from top of the light house.

Spending some time there, we headed for Malpe, which is mostly a fishing center but has a nice long beach as well. This is the place from where you have to catch the ferry of St. Mary Island, one must visit to get a taste of the emerald water and heavenly beaches of Tropical Islands for which Lakshadweep or Male is famous. The stunning rocky basalt formations that rise out of the sea would leave you spellbound for sure. Legend has it that Vasco da Gama first dropped anchor here on his expedition before entering the country from further South. The ferry timing is tricky unless you venture on a Sunday. A ferry takes at least 100 people and the only regular ferry to island is at 10.30 in morning, so apart from Sundays it’s really risky to venture if you miss the 10.30 ferry. To and fro charges for adult are Rs. 85 and for child it’s Rs. 50. The 30 mins long ferry would take you to island, there would be a small boat which would take you from ferry to island but still it’s almost certain you have to get down in the water before reaching the island, so be careful about the shoes you are wearing, we were aware of this and kept our shoes in car and wore sandals before venturing there. This is a place where you could spend your whole day actually but the ferry usually gives you 2 hours time to enjoy this lovely island before it starts its return journey.

From St. Mary we drove straight towards Maravanthe and the beach there just beside NH17 would definitely be a pleasure to watch and spend some time. Our destination was Turtle Bay, a very nice resort for many reasons: right next to the beach, very clean, good service, and great privacy to chill out on your vacation. It was costly though but if you can afford it, the experience staying here is unmatched.

After quick check in I started my northwards drive to Ottinene sunset view point. As you leave Maravanthe, at the start you would find Arabian sea at your left where waves crash with a roar and on right, the fresh water of Souparnika river dancing around, one hell of an amazing drive as you can imagine. Take a left up ahead just after an upward curving section of NH 17 where you would find a sign board, only to hit a dirt track half-a-kilometer later. A km of driving on dart track would take you to a view point, that you should never miss. To look below and find the Sauparnika River meeting the Arabian Sea in a gentle embrace, the waves of the sea rolling towards the beach and crashing there, and the long shoreline in front of your eyes, would cast a magic spell.

Car Odo Reading:

Mangalore – 45436
Kaup – 45488
Malpe – 45508
Turtle Bay, Maravanthe – 45565
Ottinene – 45587
Maravanthe – 45618

Pristine Kaup Beach:

The crabs :

The lighthouse at Kaup:

St. Mary’s Island from far:

The beaches at St. Mary Island:

Amazingly colorful St. Mary’s Island:

The stunning rocky basalt formations:

Far away the bigger ferry that took us here, the smaller one used for transporting to island, note you have to walk in water anyway:

Mind blowing NH17, left side Arabian Sea, Right side Sauparnika River:

Sauparnika river embracing Arabian sea from Ottinene:

Day10

The day started with a lovely stroll on the secluded beach adjacent to the Turtle Bay resort, the fishermen starting their daily life, the colorful fishing boats, the crystal clear blue water embracing the golden sands made you feel out of this world. Soon after breakfast we headed north towards Baindoor, a beach which I loved the most in my whole trip. Lovely serene beach with one lonely temple and Ottinene sunset view point on top, Sauparnika river meeting sea in front of you, the textured sands and tracking the star fish trails on the beaches is something you won’t be able to forget in lifetime. If you want to experience the serenity and isolation and want to experience the ocean in an exclusive date, this is the place for you.

Next stop was Murudheshwar, the whole town was probably built by R.N.Shetty and his company, It’s everywhere you would find RNS group. The beach was fabulous and colorful and the Shiva statue was awesome. RNS Hotels are also located in a nice place where you would almost feel to be on the ocean. Those who are keen to explore more, can go to the other side to discover a nice and small fisherman’s village. We had lunch at that sea top restaurant and after that headed towards Honnavar.

Just after crossing the bridge we went to Apsarakonda falls, the setting was nice and peaceful but even in a weekday noon, filled with tourists, mostly locals though. This is a small falls where the ambience is more attractive than the falls itself. We kept continuing our journey towards further north and again took a left just before Kumta town to explore Kumta beach, so close to Gokarna and not that well known, this is a place where you can easily spend many hours. Long and nicely shaped beach with white sands and the nearby hills where there was a old and abandoned building with its own romantic charm would attract you for sure. Me and my kid started walking on the top of the hill, crossed two more hills, discovered on the far side the Gokarna beaches across the hills. It’s a feast for your eyes with stunning views all around, waves crashing down below the hills, the breeze sounds so melodious, on the other side of the hill, the view is equally picture-postcard – a fishing village engaged in its daily activities, and vessels of all hues and sizes lined up along the coast.

We moved slowly from this heavenly place and took a turn from NH17 to a 10km detour towards Gokarna. We booked Nimmu House with the help of JP, which was nice but only problem was it doesn’t have a restaurant with it, making it little difficult especially with kids, if you are not too keen to go out for dinner after a long hectic day.

Car Odo Reading:

Maravanthe – 45618
Baindoor – 45643
Bhatkal – 45664
Murudheshwar- 45681
Honnavar – 45713
Kumta Beach – 45732
Gokarn 45772

Turtle Bay Resort – Excellent location:

Maravanthe Beach at Morning, busy with fishermen and the turtle:

Fisherman’s catch:

Maravanthe, the isolation would touch you:

Baindoor, the best beach that I experienced ever:

Star fish trail at Baindoor:

Murudheshwar Beach, so colorful it is:

The temple and the famous idol:

Other side of Murudheshwar:

Previous: Karnataka – Bekal Fort (Kerala)

Next: Karnataka – Kumta, Gokarn, Bhadra Wild Life Sanctuary

Karnataka – One State Many Worlds : Introduction

May 29, 2014June 1, 2014 by Kaushik

Why Karnataka and that too for a person like me who loves mountains and lonely landscapes? The question haunted me and many of my friends who curiously asked if I am taking each Indian state as my destination. Few good friends of IM even alerted me saying it’s not going to be a Zanskar or Arunachal even in farthest dream where for many miles it’s you and your soul only. Honestly I also never heard of any Karnataka round trip, we are familiar with a Kerala trip, a month long South India trip but spending almost a month in one state, Karnataka? Isn’t it going to be too much?

The answer is with due respect to every Indian state which are all fabulous on their own, Karnataka is probably the most versatile. God has given this state all except the mighty Himalayas, so if you want to take a break from the mighty Himalayas, probably this is the state you won’t regret choosing as your destination. This land of fragrance has all the ingredients of a great holiday. Its varieties lie in the relaxed length of the golden coastline along the Arabian sea, majestic Deccan rock to thick lush tropical forests and interesting wildlife, silk and sandalwood, an incredible variety of rare species of flora and fauna, a rich culture and heritage, forts, Palaces, ruins, Ornate Temples and pilgrim centers and Hill resorts.

My plan started with spectacular waterfalls to Shivasamudram, sand sunk temples of Talakad, Hoysala marvel of Somnathpura, great wildlife at the Waynad (Muthunga and Tholpetty WLS), Bandipur, Mudumalai and Nagarhole and then slowly moving to coffee plantations of Coorg and towards Bekal of Northern Kerala. Everyday you would see something new, the landscapes changes completely and so the people and culture.

Next was the coastal Karnataka and splendours of beaches like Kaup, Baindoor, Maravanthe, Gokarn and geographical wonders of St. Mary’s Island before heading for Western Ghats to hit evergreen Malnad via Jog Falls with its beauty and charming hill stations of Kemmanagundi, Mulayanagiri, Bhadra WLS or the Hoysala art of Belur and Halebidu. The brilliance of Malnad continues as you travel through Kudremukh,temples of Hornadu and Srinigeri, hitting the ghat again at Agumbe and finally at blissful Tirthahally.

The magic continues as you enter the ageless “Cradle of Stone Architecture” at Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal and finally the amazing Hampi. As you keep traversing through length and breadth of Karnataka, be ready to be spellbound by its magic, truly “One State Many Worlds”.

Outline of the 3 weeks trip was like this:

Southern Forest and Coffee Circuit:

Day1 – Bangalore Airport – Mysore
Day2 – Mysore – Shivasamudram – Talakad – Somnathpura – Ranganatithu – Mysore
Day3 – Mysore – Gundalpet – Bandipur – Mudumalai – Gudalur – Sultan Bathery – Muthunga WLS – Kalpeta
Day4 – Kalpeta – Meppady – Soochipara – Sunrise Valley – Phookot Lake – Banasurasagar Dam – Kalpeta
Day5 – Kalpeta – Mananvady – Kuruwa Island – Kattikulam – Tholpetty WLS- Iruppu Falls – Thirunelly
Day6 – Thirunelly – Kattikulam – Bavali – Karapura – Kabini JLR
Day7 – Kabini JLR – Bavali – Kattikulam – Kutta – Ponnampet – Gonikoppal – Virajpet – Madikeri
Day8 – Madikeri – Abbey Falls – Bhagamandala – Talacauvery – Panathur – Kanhangad – Bekal Fort – Kasargod – Mangalore

Google Map: http://g.co/maps/cqynj

Western Coastal and Central Malnad Circuit:

Day9 – Managalore – Kaup Beach – Malpe (Take Ferry to St. Mary) – Kundapur – Maravanthe – Ottinene for sunset and back to Maravanthe
Day10- Maravanthe – Byndoor Beach – Murudheshwara – Kumta Beach – Gokarna
Day11- Explore Gokarna Beach and other Beaches like Kudle, OM, Half Moon and Paradise.
Day12- Gokarna – Kumta – Take SH48 – Ondane – Mensa – Jog Falls – Sagar – Shimoga – Lakkavalli
Day13- Lakkavalli – Tarikere – Lingdahalli – Kalahati Falls – Kemmanagundi – Mulayanagiri -Chikmagalur – Belur
Day14- Belur – Halebidu – Belur
Day15- Belur – Chikmagalur – Vastare – Aldur – Balehonnur – Magundi – Balehole – Hornadu – Kalasa – Kudremukh NP – SK Border – Srinigeri-Agumbe – Tirthahally

Google Map: http://g.co/maps/8qyyg

Northern Heritage Circuit:

Day16- Tirthahally – Shimoga – Honnali – Harihar- Take NH4 – Haveri – Hubli – Take NH218 – Navalgund – Nargund -Kulgiri Cross – Badami
Day17- Badami – Pattadakal – Aihole – Badami
Day18- Badami – Gajendragarh – Kushtagi – Budugumpa – Take SH23 to Gangawati – Anegundi – back to Gangawati – Kampli – Hampi
Day19- Hampi – Daroji – Hampi
Day20- Hampi
Day21- Hampi – Hospet – Chitradurga – Tumkur – Dosspeta – Bangalore Airport

Google Map (Tirthahally – Hampi): http://g.co/maps/vy9vu

Google Map (Hampi – Banagalore Airport): http://g.co/maps/g9r4n

The main objective of writing this is to take you through the versatility the state can offer, so primarily it would be a photo log with some narrations.

Next: Karnataka – Mysore, Shivasamudram, Talakad, Entering to Waynad

Explore The Unexplored

Tag: Gokarn

Karnataka – Kumta, Gokarn, Bhadra Wild Life Sanctuary

Karnataka – Pristine Beaches Kaup, St. Mary Island, Maravanthe, Baindoor, Murudheshwar

Karnataka – One State Many Worlds : Introduction